Friday, July 1, 2011

For the Future

Before I leave I would like to take the opportunity to talk about some ways this program could be improved in the future. It is not my goal to complain about the trip or the program, far from it, but the program is not perfect and perhaps there are some simple ways to enhance the trip.

While I really appreciate all the unique things we got to experience during this program, sometimes the days were a bit too long. I would be in favor of cutting out some minor sites so that we could have more time to properly reflect on the things we have seen. It is sometimes really difficult to write a good reflective journal on such a long day. Not only is there so much to be said, but the fatigue is sometimes a hard beast to fight.

Perhaps part of the above problem could be solved by giving us a consistent free day every few days or so. Sometimes we just need time to catch up! Before coming on this trip I assumed that car rides would be the perfect time to get homework done, but unfortunately I (and many others) were battling nausea. A consistent free day (or simply more free days) would help us keep everything under control. Perhaps we could add some more time to the trip in order to accommodate these days.

On the same note, as a student I found it challenging to keep homework and such under control when I wasn't really sure how I was doing in the class. I think consistent feedback from the Professors concerning grades would be really nice. Sometimes the expectations were a bit murky. Part of this confusion is just a natural part of a short trip like this, but some concrete feedback every week or so would help direct us students to the right path.

I also feel like there were some cities we stopped in that were kinda unnecessary. While I liked having a free day in Ismir, perhaps it would be better to have a free day in a city we've already toured (such as Hieropolis?). I liked having a beach day, but Marmaris was not my favorite beach. It felt very crowed. Maybe we could choose a new location for a beach day?

One of the things I loved about Turkey was having the same tour guide for the entire trip. It was really great getting to know Cenk throughout the trip. This is one of the things we missed as we got to Greece. Perhaps next year we could try to get the same tour guide for the entire trip to Greece.

With that said, I would also like to comment on some things I really appreciated about the trip. I loved that we had such a small group, and I love the active learning environment that is involved with a trip like this. I loved all the places we visited with the exception of the two mentioned above. I am still in shock over all we've seen in such a short amount of time.

One thing about this experience which was quite amazing is the integration between all the different sites. We didn't just look at a site, shrug our shoulders, and move on to the next one. We were challenged to look at each of the different sites and how they relate to each other. Like all the BIC classes I've taken, this trip is an integration of learning.

Need to Worship

We have visited many different sites dedicated to many different gods. We have seen churches turned into mosques, and temples turned into museums. What do all of these holy sites teach us?

In Istanbul we visited the Hagia Sophia. Originally a Christian church, the Hagia Sophia was later converted into a mosque. During this conversion process minarets were raised and the beautiful mosaics were covered over with plaster. A piece of Christian heritage was covered over in a battle of ideology. What strikes me as most interesting about this process is that the site of worship never actually changed. The building was changed, the artwork was destroyed, but the actual site remained a site of worship.

We also visited the Blue Mosque. The Blue Mosque is so named because of the beautiful blue decorations that cover the inside of the building. The minarets at the mosque call out to the people five times a day, reminding them to pray to Allah. The Blue Mosque has not been turned into a museum, and Muslims can still go to worship there today.

When we visited the city of Aphrodisius we learned about the importance of beauty as it relates to worship. Aphrodite was the goddess of beauty, and the entire city reflected this ideal. Aphrodisius as a city is an example of incorporated worship. Worshiping the goddess of beauty wasn't limited to just a temple, it was seen throughout the architecture, even in the stadium with the tall mountains in the background.

In the caves above Ephesus we had the opportunity to visit a unique Archeological site. Inside the caves were frescos painted with early Christian scenes. There was a fresco of Paul and Thekla, with Thekla's mother looking disapproving in the background. In the back of the cave all twelve apostles were painted. The fact that someone took the time to paint these scenes shows the importance of religious identity, and the importance of stories and tradition.

In Rhodes we visited the Grand Master's Palace which was established by the order of St. John after the Crusades in the 14th century. I find it really interesting that the knights of St. John did not return to Europe after the crusades. They settled on Rhodes, fulfilling one of the original missions of the Crusades: colonize land for Christ. They established a site for Christendom close to modern day Turkey.

In Delphi we saw the Temple of Apollo, the site where the famous Oracle of Delphi gave prophesies to people from all over Greece. This site was respected by all the Greek city states, even when they were at war with each other. The desire for prophesy reflects a desire to know fate, and a desire to be connected with the divine.

When we visited Meteora we got to see a Greek Orthodox nunnery and monastery. These holy sites were built high on the smooth mountain rocks; a place where God and nature meet. People lived at these places because they wanted to know God, and they wanted to be in a place where they could reflect on the things of God.
I could say a lot more about all of these sites, I realize that I have barely skimmed the surface. From my descriptions I think it is obvious that these different sites of worship were very different, and all beautiful in their own way. So what's the common theme that runs through all these sites?

One thing that comes immediately to my mind is the universal need to worship. People desire to know God, and people desire answers to the unknowable questions. People want to feel connected to something larger than this small world. Through religion and holy sites we are able to leave this world and soar among the heavens.

Another thing that comes to mind is the need for a physical holy site. In order to understand God and the divine, people want a site dedicated to this pursuit. In many of the places we visited the sites were used to worship different God's at different times, but the site itself always remained a place of worship.

In my ideal world everyone would be a Christian and there would be no dispute over religion. No matter how much I wish it, it is not so. Different people and cultures have different beliefs. One thing I take comfort in is the almost universal pursuit of God. I know the questions I'm asking are important because they are questions that have been asked from generation to generation and from culture to culture.

Unexpected Challenges

I wanted to talk briefly about some unexpected challenges that I experienced on this trip. My goal is writing this post is not to complain, rather I would like to think upon these experiences so that I can be better prepared in the future.

One experience is the language barrier. I never realized just how important it is to be able to communicate simple things with the people around us. Knowing s few simple phrases such as "please", "thank you", and "excuse me" can make a world of difference. I am very thankful to our tour guides who helped us overcome some of the language barrier challenges. In the future I would like to prepare more ahead of time. I would like to have some language skills ahead of time so that I am able to fill in the gaps and spend less time lost in translation.

Another challenge was lack of sleep. When the options were sleep, homework, or experiencing local culture, sleep usually got pushed to the back burner. Sometimes this lack of sleep would make me frustrated or snappy, and I would like to take the opportunity to apologize for my occasional testiness. While I don't regret any of the amazing cultural experiences we had, in the future I would like to remember that taking time to rest helps to enjoy the whole experience more. If I had had more sleep I could have paid better attention to the sites while touring.

Coffee is usually my weapon against fatigue, but on this trip it turned out to be a double edged sword. Coffee might help wake me up, but it can make long bus rides really painful. I think you know what I mean. Once again my solution for the future will be to get more sleep.

Before this trip I really did not appreciate the convenience of reliable Internet access. Occasionally we would have a hotel with very poor Internet, or the Internet would be very expensive. This led to oodles of frustration, and in the future I would like to remember not to take Internet for granted and not to expect it at every hotel. That way when it does work well it turns out to be a pleasant surprise.

Another lesson: procrastination is damaging to the body and soul. Occasionally, I would put off a reading or assignment and give in to the fatigue. This did not work out well for me since the next day I ended up being tired and having twice the amount of work. This usually resulted in one assignment turning out below par. Sometimes it's better to just work through the tiredness and get stuff done.

On a lighter note, I learned that water and food can sometimes be very expensive. In unfamiliar countries it's sometimes best to ask for a menu before walking into a restaurant. I learned this the hard way sometimes. Food sold by street vendors tends to be a lot cheaper, but it can be difficult to find a spot to sit down and eat.

All in all, I had a lot of difficulties arise that I wasn't expecting. This is fairly normal. Life throws us lemons so that we have the opportunity to make lemonade. Life would be stagnant and boring if we didn't have challenges to overcome, and long journeys like this one tend to throw a lot of punches. Personally, I'm thankful for the growth.

St. Demetrius

After our morning bus tour we went to the basilica of St. Demetrius. St. Demetrius is the patron saint for the city of Thessaloniki. Not a whole lot is known about the character of St. Demetrius, but he was believed to be a member of the senatorial class who defended the city in some way. It is also unclear about when exactly he was venerated as a saint. The basilica was built in the 5th century AD, so he was obviously venerated before this time.

The basilica itself was very beautiful, and very different from the monasteries we visited. The chapels in the monasteries were very small, almost humble in a way, but every inch of space was decorated with frescoes about Jesus, Mary, and the saints. This basilica was much larger in scale, and not quite as decorated. Both places invoked a feeling of reverence.

One thing I noticed when visiting the basilica were the people who came to worship. Some people bought and lit candles, and went around reverently studying the icons. After stopping before the icon I noticed many worshipers bending over and kissing it. I think it's very beautiful how the people appear to be so emotionally connected to their place of worship.

One interesting thing we learned is the difference between Catholic and Greek Orthodox churches. The Greek Orthodox church does not believe that the pope has authority over other Christians. In the Greek Orthodox church priests are allowed to marry if they get married before their ordination, but they cannot move on to become a bishop. The Catholic church makes no such provision. They also hold a very different opinion of Mary. Catholics believe that Mary herself wad not conceived in original sin, while the Greek Orthodox people do not believe that.

This whole experience makes me wonder about how my perception of church is different from the Greek Orthodox perception. As I mentioned earlier, the Greek Orthodox worshipers appear to be very emotionally connected to their place of worship. In all honesty, I tend to take mine for granted. I think that tend to forget the beauty of the entire experience, and the whole process becomes routine. From now on I would like to be more thoughtful about my place of worship.

I really appreciate how the Greek Orthodox church uses art as aids to worship. Icons on mosaics and frescos remind people of what's important, and as Dr. Moore pointed out, they act as a, "cloud of witnesses." I think this is something Protestants should focus more on.

Greek Orthodox believers do not worship the saints, but they do pray to them. They believe that the saints can then bring their petitions to God. As a Protestant, this is one thing I do not agree with. While I do believe that saints are fellow witnesses, and I think artwork of their lives is important, I do not believe you can pray to them. There is no Biblical evidence suggesting that you can pray to anyone but God himself. In John 14:6 Jesus says, "I am the way, the truth, and the life no one comes to the father except through me" (ESV).
As a final reflective note, I have a question: Do you think it is important to have a beautiful church to worship God in, or is a beautiful building merely superficial?

Riots

Today has been our first full day in the city of Thessaloniki. We started off the day by having a scenic bus tour. We visited the white tower. At this site a lot of protestors have pitched tents. Unlike the riots in Athens, it seems like there was not a lot going on. We saw a lot of pitched tents and signs, but very few people.

Our tour guide sympathizes with the protestors. She says that they are tired of corruption, of politicians cutting all the salaries except their own. She says the people know where the money has gone: straight into the pockets of the politicians. The riots we've been seeing on the news have gotten worse. We've seen protectors throwing hunks of marble at police officers, and police officers brutalizing a defenseless protestor.

Witnessing such events reminds me of how young Greece really is. Don't get me wrong, I realize that Greece is a very old civilization, but the new government is young compared to some governments. I'm impressed that the Greek people care enough to protest against corruption. One of the scariest things I've noticed about many people my age is the overwhelming amount of apathy. Many people just don't care. Politics are some distant thing that we don't think about or focus on. A healthy amount of interest in politics is good for society.

While the riots in Athens haven't been completely peaceful, there seems to be a general desire for a peaceful resolution. Jesus in Matthew 5:9 says, "Blessed are the peacemakers for they shall be called sons of God" (ESV). This makes me wonder how I might be a peacemaker for change. Some things are worth fighting for, and how we fight for these things does matter. On Rhodes we learned about the crusades, and even though the order of St. John was an order of hospitallers, for the most part the crusades were very violent. To this day we see the crusades as a blight on our Christian heritage. How might our heritage look different if we had always employed peace as our weapon?

The world is full of people who think and believe different things. These differences often lead to conflict. If society could learn to settle differences though peaceful resolution the world would be a very different place. Sadly, the world and people are not perfect. As a Christian I look forward to the day when Christ returns to earth and truly brings peace to mankind.

Pella

Today we visited an Archeological museum in Pella, the birthplace of Alexander the Great. Before visiting this site we we took a quick break in the city of Berea. Paul came and preached in this city, and we stopped at point where he supposedly spoke. Of course, no one is sure if that spot is the actual point where he spoke, but whether or not it is the actual spot, it is the spot where he is commemorated. It has become a piece of tradition.

Unfortunately, we could not visit the ruins of the palace because they were not open to visitors. At the museum we learned that Pella became the capital of Macedon when King Archelaus moved it from the old capital of Aegina. Later Phillip II and Alexander ruled in Pella. It is also the place where Aristotle came to tutor Alexander.

The city was founded on the Hippodamean plan, meaning that the city was laid out in a grid like system. A road from the palace led directly to the ancient agora. One of the main things sold at the agora was pottery. In order to make pottery they had to have clay. They got all the rock and junk out of the clay by placing the impure clay in a vessel of water. Soon the impurities would float to the bottom, and the usable clay would remain on top. After moulding and baking the clay, the vessels would be sold. Pottery was one of Pella's primary exports.

One thing that was particularly interesting was the stone mosaics. Most of the mosaics we've seen on this trip have been glass or tile, but the ones are made from stones. This makes the floor have a really interesting and natural texture, but the color range is limited. While all mosaics are detailed and impressive, these ones seem to add a whole other step to the process: they have to find the right colored rocks, with the right shapes, to put into the mosaic. One mosaic that particularly struck me was the lion hunt mosaic where a large lion was flanked by two men with swords. I'd never realized that rocks could make such beautiful scenes.

Alexander the Great is considered one of the best, if not the best, general the world has ever seen. He came, he saw, and then he conquered. This whole great legend started in Pella. Even though Pella was the birthplace for one of the greatest rulers who ever lived, ancient Pella has fallen into ruin. It's impossible for any man to stop the force of time.

This leads me to the age old discussion of the pen verses the sword. With the sword we can conquer cities, such as Troy, that will eventually fall into ruin. The pen is a little more powerful than that. Though the citizens of Athens put Socrates to death, we can still read about his life and works. Words are the monuments that have stood the test of time, while cities fall to ruin. Long live the pen.

Ultimately this shows us that ideas have stood the test of time. Men though every culture and generation want to know about the world and how it works. Worse that relate to this theme can be appreciated by all people.

Thursday, June 30, 2011

Meteora

Today we left Delphi and visited the city of Meteora. This city was unlike anyplace we've visited on this trip. The mountains did not have wide bases extending to high peaks. The mountains themselves appeared to be giant boulders. They were large, deep gray, and magnificent. Basically, no matter how much I try to describe them I cannot do them justice. They are the type of mountains that make you look upwards in reverence. While looking at them it's easy to see God's hand in creation.

I'm not the only one who thinks this place is showered with God's presence. For centuries this place has been a spot of worship; a site where monks and nuns go to devote their lives to God. We had the opportunity to visit two of these Greek Orthodox sites.

The monastery we visited was dedicated to all the saints. In order to be respectful, the girls had to tie on skirts before entering the site. The chapel was small but quite ornate. The walls were decorated with frescos that depicted the stories of Jesus, Mary, and the saints. Since the church is Greek Orthodox, everything in the frescos had meaning. Even the colors on the clothing. Jesus was typically depicted wearing red underneath and blue on top. Red represents the divine life, while the blue represents human life. Gold represents the kingdom og God. The disciples wore blue underneath, and red on top meaning that they were men who ascended to divine life.

After the chapel we saw a room that had a large barrel that stored all the wine they used. I can't remember how many gallons it held, but it almost filled the entire room. That is a lot of wine! We also got to see the spot where people used to get into the monastery. The steps we used were relatively new. Before the steps people used to ascend in a rope basket. That is what I call dedication.

The second site we visited was a nunnery dedicated to St. Stephen. Like the last monastery, this one was Greek Orthodox. There were also frescos on the walls of this chapel. Many of them were gruesome scenes of martyr's deaths. These frescos were relatively new, created within the last decade or so. This might sound strange, but it was kind of refreshing to see something new. I found it comforting that beautiful works of art are still being put in chapels.

As an American Protestant, I am not used to seeing frescos or mosaics in church. At one point in my life I even believed that such icons were "evil" because people worshiped them. I have since changed my views on this topic. The Greek Orthodox church puts pictures and icons in churches not to worship the icons, but to have the icons aid in worship. Images of Christ and the saints remind people to look towards God for inspiration. It saddens me that many Protestant churches do not teach on the lives of the saints. We know that the witness of Christ is true partially because of their lives. The disciples and saints would not have died if Jesus was still rotting in his tomb. They firmly believed in the resurrected Christ, and this should be a source of comfort to all Christians.