Friday, July 1, 2011

For the Future

Before I leave I would like to take the opportunity to talk about some ways this program could be improved in the future. It is not my goal to complain about the trip or the program, far from it, but the program is not perfect and perhaps there are some simple ways to enhance the trip.

While I really appreciate all the unique things we got to experience during this program, sometimes the days were a bit too long. I would be in favor of cutting out some minor sites so that we could have more time to properly reflect on the things we have seen. It is sometimes really difficult to write a good reflective journal on such a long day. Not only is there so much to be said, but the fatigue is sometimes a hard beast to fight.

Perhaps part of the above problem could be solved by giving us a consistent free day every few days or so. Sometimes we just need time to catch up! Before coming on this trip I assumed that car rides would be the perfect time to get homework done, but unfortunately I (and many others) were battling nausea. A consistent free day (or simply more free days) would help us keep everything under control. Perhaps we could add some more time to the trip in order to accommodate these days.

On the same note, as a student I found it challenging to keep homework and such under control when I wasn't really sure how I was doing in the class. I think consistent feedback from the Professors concerning grades would be really nice. Sometimes the expectations were a bit murky. Part of this confusion is just a natural part of a short trip like this, but some concrete feedback every week or so would help direct us students to the right path.

I also feel like there were some cities we stopped in that were kinda unnecessary. While I liked having a free day in Ismir, perhaps it would be better to have a free day in a city we've already toured (such as Hieropolis?). I liked having a beach day, but Marmaris was not my favorite beach. It felt very crowed. Maybe we could choose a new location for a beach day?

One of the things I loved about Turkey was having the same tour guide for the entire trip. It was really great getting to know Cenk throughout the trip. This is one of the things we missed as we got to Greece. Perhaps next year we could try to get the same tour guide for the entire trip to Greece.

With that said, I would also like to comment on some things I really appreciated about the trip. I loved that we had such a small group, and I love the active learning environment that is involved with a trip like this. I loved all the places we visited with the exception of the two mentioned above. I am still in shock over all we've seen in such a short amount of time.

One thing about this experience which was quite amazing is the integration between all the different sites. We didn't just look at a site, shrug our shoulders, and move on to the next one. We were challenged to look at each of the different sites and how they relate to each other. Like all the BIC classes I've taken, this trip is an integration of learning.

Need to Worship

We have visited many different sites dedicated to many different gods. We have seen churches turned into mosques, and temples turned into museums. What do all of these holy sites teach us?

In Istanbul we visited the Hagia Sophia. Originally a Christian church, the Hagia Sophia was later converted into a mosque. During this conversion process minarets were raised and the beautiful mosaics were covered over with plaster. A piece of Christian heritage was covered over in a battle of ideology. What strikes me as most interesting about this process is that the site of worship never actually changed. The building was changed, the artwork was destroyed, but the actual site remained a site of worship.

We also visited the Blue Mosque. The Blue Mosque is so named because of the beautiful blue decorations that cover the inside of the building. The minarets at the mosque call out to the people five times a day, reminding them to pray to Allah. The Blue Mosque has not been turned into a museum, and Muslims can still go to worship there today.

When we visited the city of Aphrodisius we learned about the importance of beauty as it relates to worship. Aphrodite was the goddess of beauty, and the entire city reflected this ideal. Aphrodisius as a city is an example of incorporated worship. Worshiping the goddess of beauty wasn't limited to just a temple, it was seen throughout the architecture, even in the stadium with the tall mountains in the background.

In the caves above Ephesus we had the opportunity to visit a unique Archeological site. Inside the caves were frescos painted with early Christian scenes. There was a fresco of Paul and Thekla, with Thekla's mother looking disapproving in the background. In the back of the cave all twelve apostles were painted. The fact that someone took the time to paint these scenes shows the importance of religious identity, and the importance of stories and tradition.

In Rhodes we visited the Grand Master's Palace which was established by the order of St. John after the Crusades in the 14th century. I find it really interesting that the knights of St. John did not return to Europe after the crusades. They settled on Rhodes, fulfilling one of the original missions of the Crusades: colonize land for Christ. They established a site for Christendom close to modern day Turkey.

In Delphi we saw the Temple of Apollo, the site where the famous Oracle of Delphi gave prophesies to people from all over Greece. This site was respected by all the Greek city states, even when they were at war with each other. The desire for prophesy reflects a desire to know fate, and a desire to be connected with the divine.

When we visited Meteora we got to see a Greek Orthodox nunnery and monastery. These holy sites were built high on the smooth mountain rocks; a place where God and nature meet. People lived at these places because they wanted to know God, and they wanted to be in a place where they could reflect on the things of God.
I could say a lot more about all of these sites, I realize that I have barely skimmed the surface. From my descriptions I think it is obvious that these different sites of worship were very different, and all beautiful in their own way. So what's the common theme that runs through all these sites?

One thing that comes immediately to my mind is the universal need to worship. People desire to know God, and people desire answers to the unknowable questions. People want to feel connected to something larger than this small world. Through religion and holy sites we are able to leave this world and soar among the heavens.

Another thing that comes to mind is the need for a physical holy site. In order to understand God and the divine, people want a site dedicated to this pursuit. In many of the places we visited the sites were used to worship different God's at different times, but the site itself always remained a place of worship.

In my ideal world everyone would be a Christian and there would be no dispute over religion. No matter how much I wish it, it is not so. Different people and cultures have different beliefs. One thing I take comfort in is the almost universal pursuit of God. I know the questions I'm asking are important because they are questions that have been asked from generation to generation and from culture to culture.

Unexpected Challenges

I wanted to talk briefly about some unexpected challenges that I experienced on this trip. My goal is writing this post is not to complain, rather I would like to think upon these experiences so that I can be better prepared in the future.

One experience is the language barrier. I never realized just how important it is to be able to communicate simple things with the people around us. Knowing s few simple phrases such as "please", "thank you", and "excuse me" can make a world of difference. I am very thankful to our tour guides who helped us overcome some of the language barrier challenges. In the future I would like to prepare more ahead of time. I would like to have some language skills ahead of time so that I am able to fill in the gaps and spend less time lost in translation.

Another challenge was lack of sleep. When the options were sleep, homework, or experiencing local culture, sleep usually got pushed to the back burner. Sometimes this lack of sleep would make me frustrated or snappy, and I would like to take the opportunity to apologize for my occasional testiness. While I don't regret any of the amazing cultural experiences we had, in the future I would like to remember that taking time to rest helps to enjoy the whole experience more. If I had had more sleep I could have paid better attention to the sites while touring.

Coffee is usually my weapon against fatigue, but on this trip it turned out to be a double edged sword. Coffee might help wake me up, but it can make long bus rides really painful. I think you know what I mean. Once again my solution for the future will be to get more sleep.

Before this trip I really did not appreciate the convenience of reliable Internet access. Occasionally we would have a hotel with very poor Internet, or the Internet would be very expensive. This led to oodles of frustration, and in the future I would like to remember not to take Internet for granted and not to expect it at every hotel. That way when it does work well it turns out to be a pleasant surprise.

Another lesson: procrastination is damaging to the body and soul. Occasionally, I would put off a reading or assignment and give in to the fatigue. This did not work out well for me since the next day I ended up being tired and having twice the amount of work. This usually resulted in one assignment turning out below par. Sometimes it's better to just work through the tiredness and get stuff done.

On a lighter note, I learned that water and food can sometimes be very expensive. In unfamiliar countries it's sometimes best to ask for a menu before walking into a restaurant. I learned this the hard way sometimes. Food sold by street vendors tends to be a lot cheaper, but it can be difficult to find a spot to sit down and eat.

All in all, I had a lot of difficulties arise that I wasn't expecting. This is fairly normal. Life throws us lemons so that we have the opportunity to make lemonade. Life would be stagnant and boring if we didn't have challenges to overcome, and long journeys like this one tend to throw a lot of punches. Personally, I'm thankful for the growth.

St. Demetrius

After our morning bus tour we went to the basilica of St. Demetrius. St. Demetrius is the patron saint for the city of Thessaloniki. Not a whole lot is known about the character of St. Demetrius, but he was believed to be a member of the senatorial class who defended the city in some way. It is also unclear about when exactly he was venerated as a saint. The basilica was built in the 5th century AD, so he was obviously venerated before this time.

The basilica itself was very beautiful, and very different from the monasteries we visited. The chapels in the monasteries were very small, almost humble in a way, but every inch of space was decorated with frescoes about Jesus, Mary, and the saints. This basilica was much larger in scale, and not quite as decorated. Both places invoked a feeling of reverence.

One thing I noticed when visiting the basilica were the people who came to worship. Some people bought and lit candles, and went around reverently studying the icons. After stopping before the icon I noticed many worshipers bending over and kissing it. I think it's very beautiful how the people appear to be so emotionally connected to their place of worship.

One interesting thing we learned is the difference between Catholic and Greek Orthodox churches. The Greek Orthodox church does not believe that the pope has authority over other Christians. In the Greek Orthodox church priests are allowed to marry if they get married before their ordination, but they cannot move on to become a bishop. The Catholic church makes no such provision. They also hold a very different opinion of Mary. Catholics believe that Mary herself wad not conceived in original sin, while the Greek Orthodox people do not believe that.

This whole experience makes me wonder about how my perception of church is different from the Greek Orthodox perception. As I mentioned earlier, the Greek Orthodox worshipers appear to be very emotionally connected to their place of worship. In all honesty, I tend to take mine for granted. I think that tend to forget the beauty of the entire experience, and the whole process becomes routine. From now on I would like to be more thoughtful about my place of worship.

I really appreciate how the Greek Orthodox church uses art as aids to worship. Icons on mosaics and frescos remind people of what's important, and as Dr. Moore pointed out, they act as a, "cloud of witnesses." I think this is something Protestants should focus more on.

Greek Orthodox believers do not worship the saints, but they do pray to them. They believe that the saints can then bring their petitions to God. As a Protestant, this is one thing I do not agree with. While I do believe that saints are fellow witnesses, and I think artwork of their lives is important, I do not believe you can pray to them. There is no Biblical evidence suggesting that you can pray to anyone but God himself. In John 14:6 Jesus says, "I am the way, the truth, and the life no one comes to the father except through me" (ESV).
As a final reflective note, I have a question: Do you think it is important to have a beautiful church to worship God in, or is a beautiful building merely superficial?

Riots

Today has been our first full day in the city of Thessaloniki. We started off the day by having a scenic bus tour. We visited the white tower. At this site a lot of protestors have pitched tents. Unlike the riots in Athens, it seems like there was not a lot going on. We saw a lot of pitched tents and signs, but very few people.

Our tour guide sympathizes with the protestors. She says that they are tired of corruption, of politicians cutting all the salaries except their own. She says the people know where the money has gone: straight into the pockets of the politicians. The riots we've been seeing on the news have gotten worse. We've seen protectors throwing hunks of marble at police officers, and police officers brutalizing a defenseless protestor.

Witnessing such events reminds me of how young Greece really is. Don't get me wrong, I realize that Greece is a very old civilization, but the new government is young compared to some governments. I'm impressed that the Greek people care enough to protest against corruption. One of the scariest things I've noticed about many people my age is the overwhelming amount of apathy. Many people just don't care. Politics are some distant thing that we don't think about or focus on. A healthy amount of interest in politics is good for society.

While the riots in Athens haven't been completely peaceful, there seems to be a general desire for a peaceful resolution. Jesus in Matthew 5:9 says, "Blessed are the peacemakers for they shall be called sons of God" (ESV). This makes me wonder how I might be a peacemaker for change. Some things are worth fighting for, and how we fight for these things does matter. On Rhodes we learned about the crusades, and even though the order of St. John was an order of hospitallers, for the most part the crusades were very violent. To this day we see the crusades as a blight on our Christian heritage. How might our heritage look different if we had always employed peace as our weapon?

The world is full of people who think and believe different things. These differences often lead to conflict. If society could learn to settle differences though peaceful resolution the world would be a very different place. Sadly, the world and people are not perfect. As a Christian I look forward to the day when Christ returns to earth and truly brings peace to mankind.

Pella

Today we visited an Archeological museum in Pella, the birthplace of Alexander the Great. Before visiting this site we we took a quick break in the city of Berea. Paul came and preached in this city, and we stopped at point where he supposedly spoke. Of course, no one is sure if that spot is the actual point where he spoke, but whether or not it is the actual spot, it is the spot where he is commemorated. It has become a piece of tradition.

Unfortunately, we could not visit the ruins of the palace because they were not open to visitors. At the museum we learned that Pella became the capital of Macedon when King Archelaus moved it from the old capital of Aegina. Later Phillip II and Alexander ruled in Pella. It is also the place where Aristotle came to tutor Alexander.

The city was founded on the Hippodamean plan, meaning that the city was laid out in a grid like system. A road from the palace led directly to the ancient agora. One of the main things sold at the agora was pottery. In order to make pottery they had to have clay. They got all the rock and junk out of the clay by placing the impure clay in a vessel of water. Soon the impurities would float to the bottom, and the usable clay would remain on top. After moulding and baking the clay, the vessels would be sold. Pottery was one of Pella's primary exports.

One thing that was particularly interesting was the stone mosaics. Most of the mosaics we've seen on this trip have been glass or tile, but the ones are made from stones. This makes the floor have a really interesting and natural texture, but the color range is limited. While all mosaics are detailed and impressive, these ones seem to add a whole other step to the process: they have to find the right colored rocks, with the right shapes, to put into the mosaic. One mosaic that particularly struck me was the lion hunt mosaic where a large lion was flanked by two men with swords. I'd never realized that rocks could make such beautiful scenes.

Alexander the Great is considered one of the best, if not the best, general the world has ever seen. He came, he saw, and then he conquered. This whole great legend started in Pella. Even though Pella was the birthplace for one of the greatest rulers who ever lived, ancient Pella has fallen into ruin. It's impossible for any man to stop the force of time.

This leads me to the age old discussion of the pen verses the sword. With the sword we can conquer cities, such as Troy, that will eventually fall into ruin. The pen is a little more powerful than that. Though the citizens of Athens put Socrates to death, we can still read about his life and works. Words are the monuments that have stood the test of time, while cities fall to ruin. Long live the pen.

Ultimately this shows us that ideas have stood the test of time. Men though every culture and generation want to know about the world and how it works. Worse that relate to this theme can be appreciated by all people.

Thursday, June 30, 2011

Meteora

Today we left Delphi and visited the city of Meteora. This city was unlike anyplace we've visited on this trip. The mountains did not have wide bases extending to high peaks. The mountains themselves appeared to be giant boulders. They were large, deep gray, and magnificent. Basically, no matter how much I try to describe them I cannot do them justice. They are the type of mountains that make you look upwards in reverence. While looking at them it's easy to see God's hand in creation.

I'm not the only one who thinks this place is showered with God's presence. For centuries this place has been a spot of worship; a site where monks and nuns go to devote their lives to God. We had the opportunity to visit two of these Greek Orthodox sites.

The monastery we visited was dedicated to all the saints. In order to be respectful, the girls had to tie on skirts before entering the site. The chapel was small but quite ornate. The walls were decorated with frescos that depicted the stories of Jesus, Mary, and the saints. Since the church is Greek Orthodox, everything in the frescos had meaning. Even the colors on the clothing. Jesus was typically depicted wearing red underneath and blue on top. Red represents the divine life, while the blue represents human life. Gold represents the kingdom og God. The disciples wore blue underneath, and red on top meaning that they were men who ascended to divine life.

After the chapel we saw a room that had a large barrel that stored all the wine they used. I can't remember how many gallons it held, but it almost filled the entire room. That is a lot of wine! We also got to see the spot where people used to get into the monastery. The steps we used were relatively new. Before the steps people used to ascend in a rope basket. That is what I call dedication.

The second site we visited was a nunnery dedicated to St. Stephen. Like the last monastery, this one was Greek Orthodox. There were also frescos on the walls of this chapel. Many of them were gruesome scenes of martyr's deaths. These frescos were relatively new, created within the last decade or so. This might sound strange, but it was kind of refreshing to see something new. I found it comforting that beautiful works of art are still being put in chapels.

As an American Protestant, I am not used to seeing frescos or mosaics in church. At one point in my life I even believed that such icons were "evil" because people worshiped them. I have since changed my views on this topic. The Greek Orthodox church puts pictures and icons in churches not to worship the icons, but to have the icons aid in worship. Images of Christ and the saints remind people to look towards God for inspiration. It saddens me that many Protestant churches do not teach on the lives of the saints. We know that the witness of Christ is true partially because of their lives. The disciples and saints would not have died if Jesus was still rotting in his tomb. They firmly believed in the resurrected Christ, and this should be a source of comfort to all Christians.

Delphi

Today we visited the city of Delphi. It was my second time to visit the site, and I must say I was very excited about it. Delphi was my favorite site last time I was in Greece, and I had been looking forward to the opportunity to study it in more detail.

This time around I really enjoyed the museum at Delphi. Near the entrance to the museum there are a lot of really small statues. These statues are not gods, but rather offerings that people would make to the gods. I knew that the greeks performed animal sacrifices, but I didn't realize that there were many other types of offerings. Also near the entrance of the museum is a large cauldron. These were popular temple gifts, and were useful because the meat from the animal sacrifices could be cooked in the pots.

The museum had statues from the Greek and Roman eras, and these statues were actually quite different. The greeks tended to portray the idealized individual, not a person as they actually were. They would write inscriptions under the statues to tell who a person was. The Romans still appreciated the idealized figure, but tended to make their statues more realistic. Their bodies were more proportional and sometimes faces were made in likeness.

At the Delphi site we walked along the sacred way. In Greek times, only healthy people were allowed to walk this road. They did not want someone dying in the sacred place. For similar reasons, pregnant women were not allowed inside. Before walking the sacred way people would wash and sometimes they would purchase an offering to give to a god. As a person walked along the sacred way they would pass by the treasuries of all the other city states. The walls of the Athenian treasury house are inscribed with ancient music pieces.

The temple itself is where the oracle would have been. Interestingly enough, the temple rested on a fault line where gasses would come up from the earth and make the oracle say strange things. It was up to the men receiving the prophesies to interpret them. The famous prophesies were all up to some interpretation, "you must build a wooden wall", "if you go to war a great nation will fall", etc. No one could accuse the oracles of being wrong, only of interpreting them incorrectly.

I found Delphi especially interesting because it is a place where women played a unique and important role. In Athens we learned that women mostly stayed home they did not go out into the agora or participate in politics. In Delphi, the oracle was a woman. People came from all over to hear her shout out prophetic words. Granted, it was up to men to divine meaning from the words, but it is still significant that a position that played such an important role in Greek society belonged to a woman.

After passing the temple we walked up a steep hill to the spot where the Pythian games were held. Any free man from Greece was allowed to compete. These games were held every four years, much like the modern Olympics. I find it fascinating that Greek city states, though constantly warring with one another, can come unite in one spot to worship and compete.

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Jesus and Socrates

For Biblical Heritage this summer we've had the opportunity to study both Socrates and Jesus. In a literal and a metaphorical sense. In a metaphorical sense, we've been studying Greek culture and visiting Greek sites all while examine the significance these sites play in biblical history. We have to think about how the world of Jesus interacts with the world of Socrates.

Good teachers must have some similar qualities, even if they are from different cultures. Perhaps this is an obvious observation, but both Jesus and Socrates had followers. Their followers later wrote down their teachings, neither Jesus nor Socrates wrote anything down themselves. The teachings of Jesus and Socrates are still very influential in modern culture.

Jesus and Socrates both came from humble backgrounds. Jesus was born in a manger and raised as a carpenter's son. Socrates' father was not one of the wealthy elite, rather he worked as a stone mason. Both Jesus and Socrates showed interests in the lives of the average person.

Jesus and Socrates did not preach the same message, but they had similar goals. They both wanted to bring truth to their people. Socrates is famous for asking questions to discover truth. While Jesus gives sermons, he also also asks questions. In Matthew 5:13 Jesus says, "You are the salt of the earth, but if salt has lost its taste, how shall its saltiness be restored? It is no longer good for anything except to be thrown out and trampled under people's feet". Now Jesus was using rhetorical questions, which was quite different from Socrates' methods, but they both demonstrate the importance of teachers asking questions

Both Jesus and Socrates were not popular while they were alive. Socrates was put on trial for his beliefs and later condemned to drink hemlock. Jesus too was put on trial and later nailed to a cross. What made these two men so unpopular? They taught what they believed despite the consequences. Jesus and Socrates were not afraid to condemn the actions of powerful men.

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Greek islands

Today we took a lovely boat tour to some Greek islands. The morning was cloudy and cold, so we were a little worried about how the day would turn out. The early morning clouds ended up being a blessing in disguise, for while everyone else was inside we students took the opportunity to secure the best seats on the boat. We also spent a good portion of our time making sure these seats weren't stolen. I am happy to report that violence was never required.

The first island we visited was the island of Poros. We were only there for about 40 mins, so I don't have a whole lot to say on the subject. It was very beautiful, and our wonderful seats secured us an excellent view as we sailed into port. We found some gelato, and I got a scoop of coconut and a scoop of blood orange. It was awesome.

The second island we visited was the island of Hydra. Once again, the views were amazing. One pretty exciting tourist attraction on this island is riding donkeys through the city. I think Zachary got to experience this activity. We girls were really excited by the shopping. I wanted to visit the small museum, but this idea was quickly vetoed by the rest of the group. Ellie and I ended up going back to the boat about 20 minutes early in order to secure our seats. We were very confused when the boat left port about 10 minutes early, before any of our friends made it on board. I was 99.9% positive that we had made it to the right boat, but some nagging suspicion kept telling me I had failed to understand some important crew instruction. Fortunately, the boat turned around and picked up everyone else. Apparently they had to leave port for a few minutes in order to let another boat pick up passengers. We may have been worried and confused for a few minutes, but we kept our seats!

The next island was the island of Aegina. This island had a beach, but most of us weren't in the mood for swimming. We were in the mood for food. Naturally we searched for gyros, but the ones we found were not quite as delightful as the ones on Rhodes. The smoothies we drank on the beach were quite good. Ellie, Linh, and I enjoyed sipping them as the boys swam out to a rock.

Having a day were we could relax on the boat and enjoy the islands was great. I wish I could properly describe the scenery. The islands were like Montana mountains arising out of Caribbean sea. Quite possibly one of the most beautiful things I've ever experienced. I think it's really remarkable how I can live my entire life without even imaging some of the beautiful places we've experienced on this trip. This makes me wonder what the rest of the world is like and what else I'm missing.

Corinth and Mycenae

Today we woke up early in order to visit the city of Corinth. We first stopped at Acrocorinth, and saw the entire city below us. The view was quite fantastic, and I would have enjoyed the whole experience a lot more if I hadn't almost stepped on a snake. I really hate snakes.

When we arrived we were met by an archeologist who has been excavating the Corinth site since the 70s. Dr. Rhodes happens to be one of Ben's professors at Notre Dame, so he took us around the site and taught us a few things about working as an archeologist. We spent a lot of time looking at the main temple in Corinth, which is supposedly the temple of Apollo. Through Socratic dialogue and examining the ruins, Dr. Rhodes explained why he thinks this temple actually was the temple of Zeus and Hera. I won't attempt to reconstruct the Socratic dialogue here, but one simple reason for his belief is that the temple had spots for two statues, not just one.

We spent a lot of time at the Corinth site, but we didn't talk about Paul's visit to Corinth. We spent time looking at the various places and what they were used for. We saw the stone starting blocks where runners would place their feet for races. We saw the Roman toilets, which were placed rather close together. Apparently they were not afraid of sitting awkwardly close to one another.

Dr. Rhodes told us a lot about being an archeologist. Being an archeologist requires analytical and deductive reasoning skills. An archeologist has to take ruins and find information on how people lived, literally reconstructing the past in order to get information in the present. A lot of time is spent in the heat, meticulously working in rubble. It sounds like quite the job, perhaps not as action filled as the Indiana Jones movies would have us believe. I was really impressed with the amount of thought Dr. Rhodes put into even the smallest details, I am led to conclude that archeology work requires a lot of patience.

After lunch we visited the tomb of Agamemnon. We are not actually sure if this tomb was Agamemnon's, but it was the largest tomb excavated in the area and Agamemnon is considered Mycenae's greatest king. The tomb itself is a very large dome, with a triangle support over the tomb's door. Inside the tomb we did not discover buried treasure, but we did find a little owl hovering in a corners. I love owls, so this excited me to no end. It was the closest I've ever been to an owl in the wild.

Next we journeyed to Mycenae itself. Our goal? To discover the bathtub where Clytemnestra had her revenge upon Agamemnon. I'm sorry to report that the bathtub is no longer in existence. I'm not even sure if the site we visited was actually where the deed occurred. We did, however, walk through the lion's gate and climb to the top of the hill where the palace was. We descended into the dark cistern with only our cameras as flashlights. There is a small puddle where the cistern would have been.

There is something really special about visiting sites like Corinth and Mycenae. I love the thrill of putting images to the places I've imagined. When I read Paul's letter to the Corinthians I am better able to understand what Corinth was actually like. When I read about Agamemnon and Clytemnestra, I know what the landscape of Mycenae is really like. It's the same excitement I feel after completing a difficult puzzle; now I know how all the pieces fit together.

Saturday, June 25, 2011

Temple of Poseidon

Today we had the morning free to catch up on sleep, homework, or whatever else had gotten away from us amongst all the excitement. Ellie and I slept in until 10:30, which was a trip record for us. We woke up too late for breakfast, so we searched the neighborhood for some local cuisine. We managed to find a small bakery that had pida, and that made an excellent lunch.

In the afternoon we traveled to the temple of Poseidon. Our driver, Odysseus, drove us down the Poseidon highway. I thought this was a little ironic, especially considering the winding drive which was a little bit rough on some of us.

The temple itself was not particularly grand, but the views were amazing. We could see miles of ocean. It felt like the real temple at this site was the landscape itself. For years tourists have carved their names into the temple, and one such tourist was Lord Byron. Don't worry, i took a picture of this epic signature.

Athens day 2

Today we explored the city of Athens. First we went on the bus to pas by some famous sites. We saw the Olympic stadium where the special Olympics will be held in a few days. We also passed by the temple of Zeus.

After the tour we went to the acropolis. This is my second time to visit the acropolis, and I can't believe how much reconstruction work has been done in less than two years. The temple of Athena Nike was reconstructed, and the Temple of Athena had more pillars erected. The temple of Athena is named the Parthenon because it comes from the greek meaning virgin. Later when the Parthenon became a Christian church it was dedicated to the virgin Mary.

I find it really interesting that many of the worship sites we've visited have been used to worship different gods at different times. The Parthenon was used to worship Athena, Jesus, and Allah. It's interesting that once a place is a site of worship it tends to remain a site of worship.

Next we headed over to the Acropolis Museum. I was really looking forward to this part of the trip because I didn't get to visit the last time I was in Athens. I was not disappointed. This was perhaps the most amazing museum I've ever seen because it's a museum and an archeology site. The walkway to the entrance of the museum is made of glass, and underneath the glass an excavation is going on. Underneath us we saw an archeologist working on a mosaic floor. I thought it was a little bit sad that this beautiful museum is not in possession of all the Parthenon reliefs. A good portion of them are still housed in the British Museum.

The issue with the Parthenon reliefs is an interesting question of ownership. Technically, Lord Elgin did receive permission to take these relics. Does any one man or government have the right to sell away objects of their nations history? Do these objects belong to "the people"? Should such objets be returned to the country of their origin? Right now the Grecian government is fighting to have relics from the Parthenon returned, and it's hard not to have some sympathy for their cause. It seems natural to want pieces of your nation's history to be in your nation.

For dinner tonight we got to see a show. They sang some traditional songs and did some traditional dances. At one point this involved pulling audience members up on stage. I thought this was mortifying, but in hindsight it was kinda funny.

Athens day 1

Today we woke up in Rhodes and took a brief flight to Athens. We drove to the hotel and took a brief break before heading out to Mars Hill. Now I knew Mars Hill was the site where Paul was put on trial, but Mars Hill is a famous point for many other events. Mars himself was supposedly put on trial here, and that's how the hill received it's name. It was also the spot where Orestes was put on trial. Mars Hill was the ancient Athenian court room for murder trials, and not even a god was exempt from this justice.

Next we visited the ancient agora, which was the ancient marketplace where people would go to buy goods, and exchange information. The philosophers would hang around the "stoas" to talk about the latest ideas. Going through the museum was really interesting. I especially liked seeing the pottery pieces where people would vote to ostracize someone. The votes on these particular pottery pieces were for Themistocles, the famous Athenian hero who advised the city to build a wooden wall of ships. I also enjoyed seeing the large stone which would randomly select citizens to serve as judges up on Mars Hill.

Down in the agora we passed the jail, and wales up a short hill to the temple of Athena and Hephaestus. The history of the temple was rather explicit, but let's just say that Hephaestus had a thing for Athena and she did not return this sentiment. At this site we found a turtle, and this excited Ellie to no end.

This is the second time I've visited these sites, but the first time I've visited the museum. I was impressed with just how normal life in ancient Athens was. People worshiped, talked, and traded together. There was rule of law and a functional government. Athens was ancient, but certainly not primitive.

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Rhodes day 2

Today was our second day on the island of Rhodos. We were given the day to explore the island at our leisure, but the first thing everyone wanted to do was return to the old city. The only problem was transportation. We had to navigate our way around the island without a bus driver or Greek tour guide. We ended up taking a bus. Best 5 euros ever spent.

We all agreed to tour the grand master's palace, a medieval castle built by the knights of St. John. This particular order of knights were an order of Hospitallers in the crusades. After the fall of Jerusalem they made their way to Rhodes and invested their money in the palace. They later had control over Malta, but were weakened by Napoleon. They no longer control the island of Rhodes, but the order exists to this day. The order of St. John still have annual meetings on Rhodes.

After learning about the crusades and the order of St. John, i can't help but notice how our modern mindset has changed from that time. For these people, there was no separation of church and religion. Conquering and ruling was done in the name of an ideology, and they did not find this strange or contradictory. From my own perspective, it seems very strange to conquer and pillage in the name of God. Despite this, the medieval people understood something that we sometimes forget in modern culture: ideology matters. What we believe, what standards we hold as truth, affects our actions. We tend to separate a person from their religious beliefs, but is this a correct way of thinking? How can we embrace our differences while acknowledging that there is truth in this world? It's easy to condemn the atrocities that happened during the crusades, but we must understand that they were trying to fight for truth.

After our castle tour, we decided to take a brief pit stop for some manna from heaven (chicken gyros). I think our entire group has fallen under the gyro spell. We're hooked. I think we're also rather fond of the gelato. Today I sampled mint and chocolate.

Naturally we couldn't have a free day without devoting some time to the beautiful sea surrounding us from all sides. The water is a perfect blue green, and it's so clear that we can see all the little fish slipping around our toes. Even under water it's clear and easy to see. I was able to see tiny shells moving around on the ocean floor so I dove down and fished some out. There were little crabs inside. At the risk of sounding cheesy, I think we all learned a lot just by basking in the island's glories.

Rhodes day 1

This morning we left Marmaris and set sail to the Greek island of Rhodes. The short boat ride was quite beautiful. From the water, the island of Rhodes looks like a medieval fortified castle with high wills and rounded towers. On any normal day this scene would have been quite exciting, but today I felt weighted down with weariness. An epic cat fight took place outside my window last night, and needless to say this disrupted my sleep cycle.

After arriving we took a very brief tour of the old city of Rhodes. By brief I mean the briefest tour we've had so far. We drove past the sites, walked around the old city for a few minutes, and then had two hours to roam around on our own. This is perfection.

Even though we basically did a drive-by tour, I did learn some very interesting things about Rhodes. The giant colossus statute that used to be in the harbor was over 150 feet high and literally straddled ships as they came into harbor. It was made of copper and was one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. Unfortunately, it fell over in an earthquake and was later sold for scrap metal.

This island is known as the island of the sun because it only gets an average of 15 cloudy days a year. Perfect spot for a beach vacation. At one time this island was plagued by snakes (gross) and in order to get rid of the snakes the people brought in deer. Now two pillars with deer on top "guard" the entrance to the harbor.

We went to the "old town" which was the original part of the city. The streets were individual stones laid together on their sides. It's very difficult to explain, but the effect was quite amazing. I couldn't help but think about all the time it must have taken to lay down these roads. To be brief, I was impressed by the roads in Rhodes (cheesy pun totally intended).

All of the sites and museums were closed, so we didn't get to go on any official tours. We did have the opportunity to roam about the trinket shops in the old city, which were filled with everything from herbs to hand made leather shoes. The most exciting part of the old city was the discovery of chicken gyros. Toasted pita bread filled with chicken roasted on skewers, tomatoes, onions, and tatziki sauce. I think I just discovered the fountain of youth.

After visiting the old city, we went back to the hotel. Of course, since we're on an island, there was a beach nearby. I felt the need to go swimming as soon as possible, so Ellie and I spent the late afternoon wading in the Mediterranean.

It's amazing to me how crossing a brief stretch of ocean leads us to a place with it's own unique history. The sites in Rhodes look medieval, while the sites in Turkey were more ancient. Even the people are very different. In Turkey the population is 98% Muslim, while on Rhodes there is only a very small Muslim population. A few minutes of sea time is enough to produce different cultures and ideologies.

Monday, June 20, 2011

Marmaris and assignment 12

Well the last couple of days have been spent in Marmaris. No, we haven't seen any ancient ruins, but we have become well aquatinted with beach life. Lounging in the sun and swimming in the sea is a great way to recover from two weeks of intense travel. Now we're ready to move on to part 2 of our adventure. Just when I started learning some Turkish words it's time to turn off the Turkish and turn on the Greek. What jolly fun.

Luke chapters one and two describe the books mission to compile eyewitness accounts of the things that have passed for a person named Theopolis. Luke starts out this narrative with the story of John the baptist and the events surrounding his birth. After John the Baptist, Luke describes the coming of Jesus and the events which led up to his birth. I find it really interesting that Luke starts off with John and not Jesus. I suppose this might be because John later prepares the way for Jesus and baptized him. Clearly John plays a very important role in the gospel story, and the actual historical events surrounding the coming of Jesus are very important.

Recently we visited the ancient city of Priene, and at this site there is a very interesting inscription called the Priene calendar inscription. This inscription tells of the coming of Augustus in terms that are very similar to the Luke account. Both Augustus and Jesus are predicted to be saviors who would bring peace to their people. Their births are both described as blessings for the world and cause for celebration. They were both sent by a divine figure to earth.

There are also some differences between these two accounts. The Luke account is far more detailed than the Priene calendar description. From Luke we learn not just how Jesus was born, but also how his cousin John was born. Unlike Augustus, Jesus was born into humble circumstances. He was born into an ordinary family, and his first crib was an animal manger. These accounts predict two very different types of kings. One is an earthly king, and one is an eternal king sent to conquer death.

Sunday, June 19, 2011

Miletus, Didyma, and Priene

Today was our tribute to philosophy. We visited the ruins of Miletus. Pre-socratics anyone? Thales? I think our professors were all geeking out. I think us students were more interested in the puppies roaming around the ruins. I have to admit, the site was pretty awesome. The amphitheater was still preserved from the roman period, and when we walked down the hill we got to see a roman Turkish bath. You could still see the basic structure of the bath, and a lion fountainhead representing Roman authority was still in tact. Soon the archeologists will begin clearing out the floor in order to find the mosaics. After the bath, our brief visit to the mothership of philosophy was complete.

Next stop of the day was the Didyma temple of Apollo. I think this is the largest temple we've seen thus far. This is where Ben, our residential architecture student, started geeking out. Even the casual observer would find this architecture stunning. It's just so big! It took all six of us students to encircle one of the columns.

After lunch in Didyma we went Priene. We had to walk uphill for a while, but the site was worth the walk. We visited the theatre, which was pretty well preserved. Unlike the other theaters we've seen, this one had five large chairs around the outside. We saw the church in Priene which was located right by the theatre. The church sill has a large marble pulpit in the centre. After the church it was on to the pagan temple. Apparently when Alexander the Great visited Priene he had his name inscribed in the temple of Athena. I liked this site. Around the temple of Athena there were lots if large columns we could climb on.

Thursday, June 16, 2011

Ephesus

Today we visited Ephesus. The first site we went to was the virgin Mary's house. Many people believe that she accompanied John to Ephesus and lived here until her death. This house is located high in the mountains, rather far away from the rest of the city. The Catholics began looking for this site after a nun had visions of Mary in the hills above Ephesus. Sure enough, they found this crumbled down house from the first century AD and decided that it must be her house. Personally, I'm a skeptic. I believe in a lot of fantastic things, but I don't see why Mary would isolate herself on a mountain. Especially if she was aging. It would be very difficult to get necessities up there.

After visiting the supposed house of Mary we went to see St. Jean's Basilica. The place is a ruin, but we could still distinguish the basic layout of the church. We saw the baptismal located in front of the basilica, and the spot where St. John is buried.

Next we visited the main center of Ephesus. There we met a professor from Biola University who was a former archeologist at this site. We walked up a staircase that said "no entry" and at the top met another archeologist who had worked at the site for 41 years. Accompanied by the proper keys and people, we began to climb the hills above Ephesus. The trail was sketchy at best, but our efforts were well worth the reward. Our destination was a small cave. In the small cave were early Christian reliefs, in the front of the cave the relief pictured Paul, Thekla, and her mother. The back wall of the cave had a relief that pictured all twelve apostles. The archeologists were very kind and they let us take pictures of the site, they only asked us to not put pictures up on the Internet. I sill can't get over just how awesome the cave site was. Experiencing a piece of Christian history not open to the general public was totally epic.

After walking down the hill (far easier than walking up) we joined the general public in viewing the rest of Ephesus. We saw the reconstructed library, which has a minorah carved into the steps showing that there was a jewish presence in Ephesus. Throughout the site we would randomly see a pie-shaped symbol carved in the marble. I learned that this was actually an early Christian symbol, the Christians would use this symbol because the fish was too easy to recognize and it was very dangerous to be a Christian in Ephesus. This symbol was also the board to a popular game at the time so the soldiers did not recognize the symbol as Christian. Any other Christian knowing of this secret symbol would enter Ephesus and know that there were other Christians present.

The first century AD was a challenging time for Christians. It was a time of persecution because Christians acknowledged only one god; they denied the diety of the emperor. Being a Christian meant risking death, and so moderate Christianity was not really an option. This issue makes me wonder what made the church in Laodicea lukewarm. Did they also worship other gods? Were they attached to wealth?

Lukewarm Christianity is not what we see in the story of Paul and Thekla. Now it should be noted that the story of Paul and Thekla is not canonized, so it may or not be true. In all probability, some aspects of the story are true while others are not. Personally I find it likely that Thekla is a real historical figure because of the reliefs we saw in the cave above Ephesus. Whoever had the cave painted obviously knew her story and believed her to be a real historical figure. Despite the questionable authenticity of this story, the Thekla presented in this story is anything but lukewarm. She chooses Christianity over her marriage, the favor of her mother, and even over her life. She trusts that God can save her from the wild beasts.

The Bible certainly teaches Christians to be respectful towards authority. Jesus tells the Pharisees in Matthew 17:21 to, "...render to Caesar the things that are Caesar's, and to God the things that are God's" (ESV). The early Christians maintained that taxes belonged to Caesar, but worship belongs to God alone. When the Emperor demanded worship as a God the Christians would have to refuse, because worshiping Caesar would not be rendering him his due. Unfortunately, Caesar himself did not see eye to eye with the Christians on this issue. This resulted in persecution as seen in the story of Paul and Thekla.

This issue of authority is still something wrestled with in contemporary ethics. One specific way this issue comes into conflict is with modern medicine practices. If a doctor thinks it is unethical to use stem cells or prescribe the "day after" pill, can the law require him to act contrary to his beliefs? Catholic hospitals around the nation have refused to administer abortions, and have threatened to shut down completely if the law requires them to act against their beliefs. Where exactly does the does religion separate from the medical world?

Aphrodisias, Laodicea, and Hierapolis

We left Ismir at 8 this morning. For some reason Ellie and my alarm did not go off so we woke up just 10 mins before leaving. We missed breakfast, but fortunately we didn't keep the bus waiting for very long.

The first stop on today's adventure was Aphrodisias. The city of beauty. Before this city was excavated, people were literally living among the ruins. Old roman columns were used to support houses, and some of the old stone tombs were being employed as wine presses. A photographer visiting the area decided to document this novelty and sent the pictures to New York University. Then the excavations began. Now Aphrodisias is a remarkable site, perhaps the most beautiful site we've seen so far.

For lunch we stopped at a local place that our guide assures us is the best in the area. It was great. They served a traditional Turkish salad (like a Greek salad, but without feta and with a lot of parsley) and we used olive oil and pomegranate vinegar as salad dressing. I had Turkish pizza (or "pida") for lunch, and I like it far better than American pizza. They fold the pizza over so it's a boat shape and put lamb meat, onions, tomatoes, and cheese on top.

Second stop of the day was the site of Laodicea. In scripture we remember it as the lukewarm city, but today it seemed very warm. This site is really interesting because it is still under excavation; archeologists were working as we walked around. In the streets of Laodicea we could see ruts where the old chariot wheels would have gone. The archeologists have discovered a temple, but they do not yet know what god the temple was dedicated to. They have also discovered some public baths. Perhaps this is where the lukewarm reference comes from? From the theatre in Laodicea we could see our last stop in the distance. From there it looked like a large glob of white among the mountains. It reminded me of a glacier, though it did seem to be a little bit too white.

The last site of the day was Hierapolis. After visiting the site I wonder why I haven't heard of Hierapolis before now! The site was beyond amazing, I'm not really sure where to begin. The view was incredible, you could see for miles around the valley below. The "white stuff in the distance" turned out to be calcium deposit. This site was a natural hot spring, and there were pools of warm water we could wade in. When staring from the pools into the horizon the pools seem endless.

Izmir

Today has been the most relaxing day on this trip thus far. Ellie and I slept in till 9 (yes, that's late) and then ate a leisurely breakfast. I had two cups of coffee. We took advantage of our free time to catch up on homework and emails. The day has been kinda slow since Linh is sick and we don't really feel like venturing out without her. Ellie and I entertained ourselves by randomly walking down the hall and knocking on Ben and David's door. What a productive day.

Around 1 pm we ventured out in search of lunch and stumbled upon a cafe with good-looking food in the window. We each got a Turkish pizza, water, and we split dessert. All for about 3 lira. Now that's the best deal we've discovered yet!

Later we went out to the park in Izmir and found a Turkish amusement park. The locals were amused at out presence and convinced us to try out some rides with them. Oh man, there was this one ride called kamikaze that hung us upside down 50 feet in the air. That was an adrenaline rush. After the amusement park we went for a walk along the water and then went back to the hotel.

Monday, June 13, 2011

Pergamon

A good portion of the day today was spent in commute, but the highlight of our day was the visit to Pergamon. I can't honestly say that I knew much about Pergamon before this visit. I knew it was mentioned in the Bible a few times, but I did not realize it was such a beautiful and important city. Apparently, the Germans liked it so much that they carted off a lot of the city's treasures to Berlin.

The first site we visited this morning was a famous ancient hospital called Asklepion. This is the place where Galen practiced. This hospital is known for the holistic methods it employed. At one spot there was a long underground tunnel that the patient would walk through. As the patient was walking through, the doctors would be pouring steaming water laced with opium through the tunnel. How's that for effective treatment methods? This hospital recognized the connection between a healthy body and a healthy soul. The theatre at the hospital only preformed comedies for this very reason.

After visiting the hospital we went up to the acropolis. The views were amazing, I completely understand why people would want to worship gods in that place. The highest temple was dedicated to the emperor Trajan. It is very interesting that they put the emperors temple above Zeus or Athena's temple. Of course only ruins remain of these temples now, but even the smallest imagination could conjure up images of Pergamon. It's easy to understand why the Bible describes this place as the devil's throne on earth.

In an ironic twist of events, it was the technological sophistication that killed the people on the acropolis. A big problem for any city is finding a reliable water source. The acropolis in Pergamon brought in their water via aqueduct, which was all well and good until they decided to piece the structure together with lead. They did not realize it, but they were poisoning the water. The average man died around 40 years old thanks to this poison well. Galen himself lived until his 70s. Perhaps he wad not living on the acropolis?

Pergamon was home to one of the world's largest libraries. It was so grand that when Cleopatra visited she became jealous and prevented the expiration of papyrus to Pergamon. Since the people lacked a proper writing medium they decided to invent their own. Their invention was called parchment, and it was basically s thin dried animal skin. This invention was revolutionary because it allowed people to write on both sides of the paper.

After the acropolis we visited the Red Basilica. There isn't too much to say about it other than it was a huge brick structure that used to be a place to worship the Egyptian gods. It was later a church and then converted into a mosque. Now it is a ruin which is currently under renovation. The inside reminded me a lot of the Pantheon because it had a dome roof with a hole in the ceiling. There were birds flying around making nests in the wall, and the effect was rather erie.

Saturday, June 11, 2011

Troy and Assos

Today was amazing. Can I just end my blog post here? That totally sums up the day. It was amazing. It was amazing. It was amazing... Get the picture?

We started off the day by bidding our last farewells to the city of Istanbul. It was bittersweet, but I suppose our adventure must continue. One of the most exciting things about today is that we woke up in Europe and will fall asleep in Asia. Two continents in one day. No big.

After we took the ferry to Asia, we visited the city of Troy. Words cannot convey my excitement. Troy has infected my imagination ever since reading the Iliad in 8th grade. Perhaps today I finally stood upon Priam's tower. The Troy of today is not exactly as Homer described it since it is no longer a harbor, but if you squint your eyes really hard you can still imagine the Achaean fleets in the background. Visiting this city makes everything I've read and studied come to life.

Well if you were to ask me, I'd say that Troy is enough of an adventure for one day, but apparently other people thought otherwise. After Troy we went on to visit the city of Assos. We walked up to the top and climbed upon the ruins of Athena's temple. It was so beautiful. From the top we could see the sea and the island of Lesbos in the distance. The ancients must have wanted to worship Athena is a place surrounded by beauty. While their polytheistic religion is very different from Christianity, after seeing Athena's temple and the churches in Istanbul I can see that there is a common desire to worship in beauty. Humans connect beauty with the divine.

Istanbul, day 3

Today is our last full day in Istanbul. Im looking at the scenery around me and realizing that I probably will never be here again. My time here is sweeter because it is so short. I have to appreciate everything while I can.

This morning we took some time off to actually have class (shocking, I know). It was a good opportunity to reflect on all the things we have experienced so far.

I have found the people in Istanbul to be surprisingly friendly and willing to communicate with us even though we have absolutely no understanding of Turkish. The only Turkish I have attempted so far is the word 'thank you' which sounds like tea+sugar+A+dream. Say it all together fast enough and bam you've just spoken Turkish. One guy on the metro this morning kindly told us we were going in the wrong direction, and pointed us to the train we were supposed to ride.

I've had the opportunity to see some early Christian churches, and I've really been struck by how detailed they are. Everything about these churches seems beautiful and well constructed. The early Christian church really focused on the importance of physical beauty. I think this is something modern churches no longer focus on. The mosaics in the churches tell a story, and teach the listener about God. In the mosques the art is very different from the Christian art because they do not have any images.The Muslim art teaches the viewers about God through words, while the Christian art teaches the viewers about God through pictures. The architecture of churches and mosques force the people to look and think upwards.

Since arriving in Istanbul we've had the opportunity to think upon some ethical issues. How can people of conflicting religions exist together in peace? The Muslims covered up the mosaics in the Christian churches because they knew that Christian ideology conflicted with their own. Are there ways to firmly uphold an ideology without "covering up" another ideology?

After our morning classes we went to Taksim Square which is where all the locals hang out. We rode the metro, then decided to walk up a ridiculous amount of stairs. Big mistake, so on our way back we rode the metro down. We stopped for lunch at the Bambi cafe. I got a lamb and cheese panini and accidentally ordered yogurt water as my drink. The drink was questionable. All the shops in this area were shops you could find in America so we didn't stay for very long.

When we got back to the old city, Linh and I stopped in this paper store. There were old maps, documents, and Islamic art. We both purchased some art. Mine had Arabic words forming the shape of a boat and of a bird. After visiting the paper store we ate our last dinner in Istanbul. I wish I could show you pictures, the sunset was amazing.

Thursday, June 9, 2011

Istanbul, day 2

Today was my second full day in Istanbul. Like yesterday, it's very hard to know where to start. The day was full of tantalizing sights, smells, and sounds. I am still very disappointed that I am unable to post pictures. I suppose this will force me to be more descriptive than I first planned. They say that a picture is worth a thousand words, right?

The first part of our day today was spent in the Egyptian spice market. Probably the most exciting two blocks in Istanbul. In the market they sold everything from harem pants to puppies, but I was delighted by the selection of Turkish teas. When the vendors wanted to sell you a tea they scooped it out of their bins and shoved it in your face. Now how's that for effective marketing? I smelled sweet apple spice tea, rose tea, pomegranate tea, orange green tea, jasmine tea, and a tea that blooms in your cup. Naturally, I had to test them all. I was also delighted by a hand painted coffee mug to go with the tea... Okay, well, the theme made sense to me at the time. The actual spices were pretty amazing too. I am now the proud owner of some wonderful Turkish curry.

After visiting the spice market we took a scenic ferry ride through the Bosporus, and ate lunch. After lunch we visited the Chora museum. The term "museum" is a little misleading because it is not a building made for showcasing priceless works of art and culture. The building itself is the showpiece. First this building was a church and monastery, but it was later converted into a mosque. When it was converted into a mosque, the fabulous mosaics were covered up with plaster. Recently, archeologists have attempted to remove the plaster and restore the original mosaics. The tiles were bright and jewel toned. One hall depicted the life of Mary while the other hall depicted the life of Jesus. One of my favorite mosaics at the Chora was the one of Jesus turning the water into wine. In the picture Jesus is literally pouring the water into large wine jugs. Another remarkable mosaic was the one of Mary's death. Apparently that is a very rare scene to see depicted. The mosaics seen in the Chora museum were very different from the ones we saw yesterday in the Hagia Sophia. These mosaics seemed to be telling a story through the art while the mosaics at the Hagia Sophia seemed to be more focused on symbolism.

The last item of the day was our visit to the Grand Bazaar. At the risk of sounding redundant, it was quite grand. Over four thousand shops selling imitation products at exorbitant prices. It was quite exciting. I learned that I am very bad at bartering, apparently I do not have a future in sales. These vendors could spot this sucker from a mile away. I did not end up buying anything at the Grand Bazaar. Every time I tried haggling I ended up walking away with nothing. C'est la vie!

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Istanbul, day 1

Today whopping whirlwind of whimsical (and sometimes not so whimsical) wonders. Understatement of the century. A brief overview of the day included a visit to the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sophia,the Topkapi Palace, the yerebatan cistern, and the Istanbul Archeological Museum.

So apparently my iPad thinks it's evil to post pictures, so I'll try to figure out a way to add them later. I'm pretty bummed because i have some pretty cool pictures I wanted to show and explain. I even have a picture of the place where the council of Constantinople was held. It pretty much rocked my socks off. I also have a sweet picture of the Bosporus I really wanted to share. Sometimes I really hate technology.

I really enjoyed visiting the blue mosque, even though my sleeves were apparently deemed as scandalous and in had to wear a special scarf. It was all very exciting. Apparently the term "blue mosque" was given to the mosque by the visitors. It was so named because most of the decorations inside are blue. These light bluish tones were very unique for the time, usually the mosques were decorated in darker jewel tones.

I find it really interesting that the Blue Mosque is still a site of worship today. The Hagia Sophia has been turned into a museum, but the Blue Mosque still acts as a mosque. Five times a day the minarets call out reminding faithful Muslims to pray.
The murals we saw of Jesus today in the Hagia Sophia were very interesting. Sometimes Jesus was pictured as a baby in Mary's lap, with a halo of holiness around His head. It was also common to see Jesus holding up one hand with three fingers on it, clearly representing the Trinity.

The architecture in the Hagia Sophia shows that Jesus is holy and transcendent. The images with usually elevated or larger than life, forcing the viewers to look upwards. The Hagia Sophia was not just a place of worship, it was a place to comprehend the transcendence of God over humans. It was a place to view the splendors of the Church and the Empire.

Faithlessness

Today I was instructed to consider a rather somber subject: the fall of Israel. According to the text, The nation of Israel falls because the people abandon their love of God. Israel was faithless,consistently turning from the God who saved them and worshiping other gods. They were not just, and they did not treat others properly.

One of the most beautiful things about God is that He consistently gives his people what they do not deserve. He promises to save Israel in spite of her faithlessness. He speaks of redemption even while speaking of destruction. God is faithful to His covenant and so He will draw his people to Himself. He will destroy his people in order that He also might restore them. The message of destruction is a paradox because it is also a message of hope. It is both bitter and sweet, consistent and without contradiction. God will save His people.

Prophets

Perhaps we could call the prophets the "voices of reason" in Jewish history. Really, it was a hard calling. They were the gadflies of their time, often speaking the truth contrary to popular opinion.

When reading through the prophets some common themes emerge. They pronounce judgement on Israel's wicked neighbors. They pronounce judgements on Israel and Judah. They denounce the sins of greed and turning from God. They foretell of the land's destruction and of God's faithful deliverance.

The church today seems more concerned with personal sins and problems and less concerned with the sins of the entire nation. Since there is no entirely Christian government system, the church is home to a variety of moral codes and worldviews. This tends to make the church introspective. This is precicely the issue a modern day prophet might be focused on. The prophet might encourage the church to abandon individualism and look at the moral state of the nation as a whole.

History

The first stop on this leg of our adventure is the city of Istsnbul. This city is literally dripping with history. There are early Roman ruins, Christian churches, Muslim mosques, and a Turkish palace. This rich tradition reminds me to think upon the Biblical Heritage class I am currently taking. How did the Israelites view history?

In some ways it seems like the Israelites have a very linear view of history. History of man begins with the creation, next comes the fall, then the calling of Abraham, and the founding of Israel. In another sense, history is seen as eternal. God has existed forever. There was no beginning and there will be no ending to God. In many ways Jewish history can be seen as cyclical. There are patterns of human behavior that are consistently repeated. Israel is consistently turning from God and God is consistently drawing Israel back to himself. It seems that the Israelites themselves did not always recognize the cyclical nature of their history. They forgot the sins of their past and kept making the same mistakes.

This understanding of history is true in many ways. History is linear, moving from one event to the next. God is eternal. History is repeating itself. This view of history is also relevant for how we live today. We should understand the events and patterns of the past in order to gain a better perspective of the future.

Friday, June 3, 2011

Covenant

I’m rather excited that today’s reading is on the concept of covenant and how covenant is important to the Jewish understanding of God. Covenant is that mysterious silk thread that binds Adam to Jesus. It transcends the Old and New Testaments providing purpose behind the story and promising a good ending.

Before the fall of Adam and Eve, there was perfect fellowship with the Creator. After the fall the relationship between mankind and God was severed. It was inhibited by death and evil. Covenant is the promise of God to be faithful, despite the fall. This covenant begins with God calling Abraham to be the father of covenant. In Genesis 12:2 God says to Abraham, “I will make of you a great nation, and I will bless you and make your name great, so that you will be a blessing. I will bless those who bless you and him who dishonors you I will curse, and in you all the families of the earth shall be blessed” (ESV). I am particularly struck by the end of this verse, through Abraham God promises to bless the entire earth. God is foreshadowing the redemption of mankind!

The Old Testament understanding of covenant is particularly interesting because it is a binding between two parties based on mutual agreement. In Genesis 17:4 God says, “Behold, my covenant is with you, and you shall be the father of a multitude of nations” (ESV). Abraham accepts this covenant. The sign of this covenant is circumcision.

In Exodus 20, God gives Abraham’s descendents the Ten Commandments. These laws are a continuation of the covenant made to Abraham. They tell us that God is a Holy God, and in order to be in fellowship with Him people must maintain certain standards. God is binding the children of Abraham to Himself. He is separating his people from the wicked nations.

Thursday, June 2, 2011

Evil

Even though the day is nice and everything seems to be going well in my little world, I know that this place I call home is full of suffering. Even mentioning the word suffering is mundane because it is such an inherent part of life.  This world is not perfect, and we can only imagine what a perfect world might look like. For now, the question is: why? Why is there suffering? Why does evil exist? People have been trying to answer this question since the dawn of time.
The Genesis account traces the existence of sin back to Adam and Eve. Adam and Eve lived in the garden free of shame. God gave them one rule to obey: they must not eat from one specific tree or they would. Satan tricked Eve telling her that eating the fruit would not make her die but would rather make her like God. Both Adam and Eve ate from the tree, thus bringing evil and shame into the world. Evil exists because missed the mark; they trusted the word of a serpent over the word of God. The motive behind this crime was pride; Adam and Eve wanted to be like God. Adam and Eve were guilty by action and motive.
The Koran seems to suggest a different understanding of evil. Evil comes from Satan, and evil exists because of his temptations. Humans may commit evil, but they are not the source of evil. Surah 6:43 says, Satan has caused to look attractive to them the [evil] deeds they had been perpetrating." This is different from the Genesis account, which portrays humans as the sources of evil and suffering in this world.
In some ways the Genesis account of evil is similar to the Confucian understanding of evil. It is the absence of good or right action. In Confucius’ Analects it says, “Merely set your heart sincerely upon Goodness and you will be free of bad intensions” (4.4). Goodness and right intention are the aim, while badness and bad intention would be evil. Both Genesis and Confucius portray evil as an action and as a motive.

Beginnings

All good things must start somewhere.  It seems that my summer adventure to Turkey and Greece first starts here at home. This beginning is full of goodbyes to friends and family. I’m even saying goodbye to Spokane herself. I admire the way Spokane is covered with green leaves and perennials, and I know that the next time I see her she will be shrouded in winter snow.
I confess that I am not completely prepared for everything I am going to experience in Turkey and Greece. I try not to think about it too much, I’d much rather be surprised by the whole experience. I know that I will learn a lot and see a lot. I imagine that my mind will be stretched and warped in ways unimaginable at the moment.
In this blog I hope to share some brief glimpses at what I’m experiencing and learning during this summer adventure. This blog is part of my class credit for Biblical Heritage, and I must confess that I am rather nervous about this whole blogging experience.  Anyone could read what I’m saying here, and I’m getting graded for it. The pressure is too much! I think I’ll try to overcome this pressure by just being excited over everything that is going on.  As my mother is fond of telling me when I complain about life’s pressures, “You’ll live.”
I suppose it’s appropriate to reflect on Genesis 1 and 2, since this blog post is about beginnings. Every time I read Genesis I am delighted to think about how the stars, water, and everything else came about in seven days. I am aware that many people do not believe in a literal seven day creation account, and I do think there is some merit to their claims. I prefer the traditional literal seven day creation account. It seems more magical. I especially love how God speaks everything into existence. Existence is inherently intertwined with words.
From the beginning, God separated humans from the rest of creation. God said, “Let us make man in our image, after our likeness. And let them have dominion over the fish of the sea and over the birds of the heavens and over the livestock and over all the earth and over every creeping thing that creeps on the earth” (Genesis 1:26, ESV). In a sense, God created the first system of government. He gave humans dominion over creation. God created the world as a world of order.
Of course, the world of Adam and Eve is not the same world we experience today. This world was perfect. Adam was the keeper of the garden. There was no shame in nakedness. What happened? As much as I love all the gardens by my house, I would not say that life is a garden. Something dramatic changed the world, and in order to understand this story I must continue reading Genesis.